How to paint with antifouling
Before starting any job, the waterline must be protected as well as any other area which is not to be painted. This can be done with solvent resistant plastic tape.
It is also important to protect yourself with the proper overalls, gloves, goggles and mask. Adhere to safety instructions on the back labels and technical data sheets.
It is essential to thoroughly stir any type of paint but it is even more critical in the case of antifoulings as some ingredients, such as copper and zinc, will have a tendency to settle during shelf life. Use a mechanical or wooden/metallic stirrer. The stirrer must be perfectly clean to avoid contamination of the paint.
4. Application tools
- Roller: Use a mohair type roller, this must be solvent resistant. For thin film antifoulings a short haired roller has to be used.
- Brush: For small areas or touch up works. This should be solvent resistant
Apply the calculated quantity of antifouling, even if this requires extra coats, otherwise the applied thickness will not be enough. Areas with more friction are the fore part, water line and aft part, near the propellers. An extra coat on those areas is recommended to increase fouling protection.
Avoid applying in adverse weather conditions, like strong wind, strong sunlight, high and low temperatures, high humidity or rain. It is not recommended to add solvents to antifoulings as this will reduce the thickness applied and increase the risk of sagging, splashes, etc.
6. Propellers, rudders, Flaps
These parts are produced from different materials, the most common being bronze or light alloys, less often they are aluminium and rarely steel. In the case of aluminium or light alloys, only Aqualine Optima or antifoulings in white or grey colours should be used.